Facial Cleansers
Any vegetable oil will remove make-up, including the more obstinate eye colourings and mascara; simply put a little on a wad of cottonwool and gently clean. Almond oil and coconut oil are specially recommended. Other simple cleaners are fresh potato juice, strawberry juice, warm milk and natural Yogurt; although these clean the skin admirably, they are not always so successful at clearing away the heavier makeup.
Recipes
Oatmeal Cleanser Using unprocessed oatmeal (not instant) grind to a powder and add enough cream or milk to make a fairly stiff paste. Rub on and into any particularly dirty area; rinse away.
Basic Light Cleansing Cream
· 15g of white wax
· 6 tablespoons almond oil
· ¼ teaspoon boric acid powder
· 5 tablespoons distilled water
Melt the wax in a double boiler (or in a glass bowl inserted in simmering water) and slowly add the almond oil. In a separate dish dissolve the boric acid powder in the warmed distilled water; add this to the wax and oil; remove from the heat and whisk until it thickens and becomes a cream.
Almond Cleansing Cream
· 15g white wax
· 2 tablespoons hydrous lanolin
· 8 tablespoons almond oil
· 2 tablespoons rose water
Melt the wax and lanolin in a double boiler, beating slowly and adding the almond oil by degrees; blend with the rose water.
Avocado Cleansing Cream
· 15g white wax
· 2 tablespoons hydrous lanolin
· 6 tablespoons avocado oil
· 5 tablespoons distilled water
Melt the wax in a double boiler, stir in the lanolin and then add the oil. Remove from the heat and slowly stir in water; stir or whisk until cool and set.
Yogurt and Lemon Cleansing Milk
· 1 tablespoon natural yogurt
· 1 tablespoon lemon juice
Simply mix together, make fresh for each use.
Cucumber Cleansing Milk
· ¼ cucumber
· ¼ pint milk
Extract or squeeze the juice from the cucumber and add to the milk; it will keep in the refrigerator for a few days.
Apple Cleansing Milk
· 1 apple
· 1 tablespoon milk
· 1 tablespoon fuller’s earth
Put the apple through a juice extractor and combine with the milk and the fuller’s earth.
Herbal Cleansing Milk
· 2 tablespoons elderflowers
· ¼ pint buttermilk
Slowly boil the flowers in the milk for half an hour, cover and leave to steep for 2 hours; strain.
Fresheners
Fresheners rinse away traces of oils and fats (residue from soaps and creams); they help close the pores, restore the skin’s acid mantle (the PH factor), stimulate circulation and refine texture. Freshener, toner and astringent are basically the same product in graded strengths. Fresheners and toners are simple plant and herbal applications and are for balanced or dry skins. Astringents are stronger and are for oily and blemished skins. Apply by soaking cottonwool pads or gauze squares in the liquids, and wipe over face.
Simple Recipes
· Cider Vinegar – Add a teaspoon to 1 ½ cups of water.
· Potato – Aub the skin with a slice of raw potato.
· Lemon – Rub with a slice of lemon, or splash with a combination of lemon juice and water.
· Camphor – Put a few drops in the last rinsing water.
· Cucumber – Squeeze the juice of 2 cucumbers, heat to boiling point, skim away the froth, bottle and refrigerate.
· Marigold – Using 6 cups of flower heads, make an infusion, strain.
· Elder Flower – Using 2 cups of the flower, make an infusion, strain.
· White Wine – After cleansing, splash with a light white wine.
Recipes
Rose Water and Witch Hazel Tone
· 2 parts rose water
· 1 part witch hazel
Simply combine and bottle.
Orange and Lemon Toner
· 3 lemons
· 1 orange
· 1 cucumber
· 3 dessert spoons rose water
· 40g alcohol
Extract the juice from the lemons, orange and cucumber and add the rose water and alcohol; shake well.
Lavender Toner
· 2 cups lavender flowers
· 30g powdered orris-root
· 1 pint vinegar
Steep the dry ingredients in the vinegar for three to four weeks; strain; dilute with an equal amount of distilled water.
Astringents
Mild astringents are simple herbal infusions; simmer a handful of any of the following in a cup of water, allowing it to steep for a minimum of two hours: sage, bilberry leaves, parsley, fennel, camomile, yarrow. Witch hazel has strong astringent properties and can be used on it’s own or as a part of astringent formulas.
Simple Witch Hazel Astringent
· 2 parts witch hazel
· 3 parts rose water
Mix by shaking in a bottle.
Comfrey Astringent
· ½ teaspoon boric acid powder
· 1 tablespoon witch hazel
· 6 tablespoons comfrey infusion
Dissolve the boric acid powder in the witch hazel, slowly stir in the comfrey infusion. Put immediately in a bottle, but allow to age for a minimum of a week before use.
Marigold Astringent
· ½ teaspoon alum
· 1 tablespoon witch hazel
· 6 tablespoons marigold infusion
Dissolve the alum in the witch hazel and add the marigold infusion.
Camphor Astringent
· 1 teaspoon spirit of camphor
· 4 tablespoons witch hazel
· 4 tablespoons rose water
· 4 tablespoons distilled water
Pour all the ingredients into a bottle and shake well to combine.
Almond Astringent
· 1 teaspoon boric acid powder
· 1 ½ teaspoons benzoin (friar’s balsam)
· 1 cup rose water
· 2 teaspoons ground almonds
· 1 cup distilled water
Dissolve the boric acid powder in the benzoin, slowly add the rose water. Mix he almonds in the distilled water; combine the two liquids and shake well in a bottle.
Sage Astringent
· ½ cup dried sage
· ½ cup alcohol
· ¼ teaspoon boric acid powder
· 3 tablespoons witch hazel
· 1 teaspoon glycerine
· ¼ teaspoon benzoin (friar’s balsam)
Steep the sage in the alcohol for a week; strain. Dissolve boric acid powder in the witch hazel and add this and all the other ingredients to the sage infusion.
Moisturizers
Moisturizers are preparations that form a protective film holding in the skin’s moisture; they themselves do not feed moisture into the skin. Moisture is the most important aspect of skin care, as it keeps the skin supple and smooth. Dry and older skins are usually lacking in moisture. A moisturizer is applied after cleansing and the use of a freshener or astringent.
Simple Recipes
· Vegetable Oil – A thin coating of any oil. Smooth over the face with a veil of water and blot dry.
· Cucumber – Cover the face with the juice. Blot dry.
Recipes
Basic Moisturizers
· 1 dessertspoon white wax
· 1 teaspoon cocoa butter (or any vegetable margarine)
· 1 ½ dessertspoons coconut oil
· 1 teaspoon lanolin
· ½ teaspoons boric acid powder
· 4 tablespoons distilled water
Melt the wax, cocoa butter, oil and lanolin in a double boiler. Dissolve the boric acid powder in distilled water, previously warmed. Slowly beat the water into the oils until the mixture cools.
Almond Moisturizing Lotion
· 30g almonds
· ½ pint distilled water
Skin the almonds b alternately dipping in boiling and cold water and grind them to a powder. Add the distilled water drop by drop, continuing to blend until the liquid is milky; strain.
Rose Water Moisturizing Lotion
· 5 tablespoons glycerine
· 3 tablespoons rose water
Pour into a bottle and shake well before each using.
Herbal Moisturizing Lotion
· 1 teaspoon cocoa butter
· 1 teaspoon lanolin
· 5 teaspoon almond oil
· 2 teaspoon herbal infusion (marigold, elder flower, comfrey, nettle, etc.)
Melt the cocoa butter, lanolin and almond oil in a double boiler; slowly add the infusion, beating constantly until cool.
Cucumber Moisturizing Cream
· 1 dessertspoon white wax
· 1 teaspoon cocoa butter
· 1 ½ dessertspoons coconut oil
· 1 teaspoon lanolin oil
· ½ teaspoon boric acid powder
· 4 tablespoons cucumber juice
· Distilled water
Melt the wax, cocoa butter, oil and lanolin in a double boiler. Dissolve the boric acid powder in distilled water, previously warmed. Slowly beat in the cucumber juice.
Conditioners
It is necessary to lubricate and nourish the skin with special emollients each day. This is the outward feeling of the skin that retains its smoothness and helps to prevent lines and wrinkles. A thin film of conditioner is sufficient, but it should be gently massaged onto the skin, using the fingertips in upward strokes over the jaw and throat areas, semi-circular movements around the eyes (very gentle here) and upward arc strokes over the forehead. Leave conditioner on for a few hours or overnight. Thoroughly cleanse afterwards.
Simple Recipes
· Honey – Moisten face, massage in honey, keep on for 20 minutes, rinse away.
· Honey and Cream – Mix 1 teaspoon honey with 2 teaspoons of light cream, beat together. Apply, leave for 20 minutes, rinse away.
Recipes
The basic recipe for a conditioning cream is one that originated in Greece many centuries ago. It was formulated by the famous doctor Galen, and to this day remains the basis for all nourishing creams. The procedure is invariable the same: first the fats are melted and the oils blended in; then any water ingredients (including herbal infusions, juices, etc.) are stirred or beaten in drop by drop; this slow process is essential and works on the same principle as adding oil to egg yolks when making mayonnaise. If it is done too quickly, the cream will be ruined.
Basic Conditioning Cream (Cold Cream)
· 400g almond oil
· 150g white wax
· 1 cup distilled water
· few drops spirit vinegar
Melt the oil and wax in a double boiler; then, drop by drop, beat in the water and spirit mixture.
Simple Conditioning Cream
· 1 egg white
· 2 teaspoons homey
· 4 drops almond oil
Beat the egg white and add it to the honey, stir in the oil; refrigerate – it only lasts a few days.
Sesame Oil Cream
· 15g white wax
· 60g almond oil
· 15g spermaceti
· 30g orange blossom infusion
Melt oils and fats together in a double boiler and slowly add orange blossom infusion.
Lily and Marshmallow Cream
· 1 tablespoon marshmallow root infusion
· ½ pint distilled water
· 1 tablespoon lily bulb powder
· 1 tablespoon honey
· 1 teaspoon rose water
· 30g lanolin
The marshmallow infusion is made by steeping the finely chopped root in cold water for a few hours; the liquid becomes gelatinous – strain before use. Simmer together with the distilled water and lily bulb powder for half an hour. Strain. Add the honey and rose water and blend well. Melt the lanolin in a double boiler and slowly add to the mixture.
Comfrey Cream
· 2 tablespoons lanolin
· 3 tablespoons white wax
· 4 tablespoons almond oil
· ¼ teaspoon boric acid powder
· 1 tablespoon distilled water
· 1 tablespoon strong comfrey infusion
Melt the lanolin in a double boiler and add the oil; dissolve the boric acid powder in the distilled water and add slowly to the melted fats; finally slowly beat in the comfrey infusion.
Simple Marigold Cream
· 1 large jar Vaseline
· 6 marigold heads
Melt the Vaseline in a double boiler, break up the flower heads, drop into the liquid and simmer for two hours – very gently. Strain before pouring into jars.
Strawberry Conditioning Cream
· 1 dessertspoon lanolin
· 1 dessertspoon powdered oatmeal
· ½ cup fresh or frozen strawberry juice
Melt the lanolin in a double boiler, add the oatmeal and when the mixture is smoother stir in the strawberry juice, beating all the time as the drops are added.
Exfoliators
Otherwise known as thinners or peeler, exfoliators help remove the dead surface cells. If these are not taken away, the skin becomes flaky or rough., often mottled in appearance. In addition, the dead cells clog up pored and prevent normal skin activity. Exfoliators are abrasive; some astringents act as mild thinners and are fine for young skins. Older skins require something tougher. Exfoliate once a week, after cleansing; once the treatment is finished. Rinse the skin, then moisturize it.
Simple Recipes
· Vegetable Oil – Rub the face with any vegetable oil, then dab on a film of warm water and a layer of apple cider vinegar. Rub in the mixture with circular movements; it will flake and peel off, taking the dead cells with it.
· Salt – Sprinkle ordinary salt on a wet facecloth and rub onto face, bu not too hard; rinse away. Not for use on delicate skin.
· Papaya Mint Tea – Pour two cups of coiling water on 2 papaya mint tea bags and leave to steep for a few minutes; soak a facecloth in the tea; wring out; apply to the face holding cloth against skin. The tea must be hot to be effective; keep heating and renewing the cloth. Continue application for 15 minutes.
Facials
Facials cleanse, stimulate and nourish the skin; they also increase circulation, bringing nutrients and oxygen to the surface. They often contain ingredients that act as purifiers, drawing out dirt, toxins and grease. Facials are usually in mask form, though sometimes a steam procedure is used. The face has to be thoroughly cleansed with a final clear water rinse before commencing any facial treatment.
Steam Facials
Herbal steam facials encourage the pores to push out dirt and impurities, while at the same time they help to heal blemishes. Pour boiling water over the herbs in a bowl; make a towel into a head tent and steam the face over the bowl for 10 minutes. Blot dry, freshen and moisturize. Traditionally the following herbs have been used in steam facials, either singularly or combined. (An infusion of any of the following can also be added to the solid masks for the same effects.)
· For Cleansing – camomile, lady’s mantle, nettle, rosemary, thyme, marigold
· For Tightening – peppermint, elder flower, benzoin, gum Arabic
· For Drying – yarrow
· For Healing – leek, comfrey, fennel
Solid Facials
Fruits, vegetables and herbs can be used alone, mixed or combined with a thickener (a substance that binds the ingredients together giving the facial a firm professional quality). Basically, a fruit or vegetable is mashed, an infusion is made of a herb. If the mixture is too runny, it is given substance by adding one of the following: oatmeal, fuller’s earth, clay, kaolin, honey and mashed banana – all neutral binders; whipped egg white or yogurt – these help oily skin conditions; whipped egg yolk or honey – these help dry skin. To make a slightly acid mantle, add a few drops of apple cider vinegar or fresh lemon juice. If the facial skin is dry or rough, add a tablespoon of oil – almond, avocado olive, safflower or wheatgerm. To help retain moisture, use honey or glycerine, which attract water from the under layers of the skin; or add the contents of a vitamin E capsule (100 international units) to the facial. It is not difficult to gauge the right consistency. A mask needs to be just thick enough to smooth onto the face without running off; start by adding the binder slowly to avoid making the formula too stiff. A mask is applied to a clean, rinsed face and should be kept on for 20 minutes. Some harden and dry, tightening the skin at the same time – but this depends on the binding material. The eye area should be left free and covered with milk soaked pads. Lie down the entire time with the head a little lower than the body if possible. Masks rinse off easily with warm water.
Simple Recipes
· Strawberry – Freshly mashed and applies, this softens and lightens the skin and helps to balance the pH factor; mix with oatmeal if too sloppy.
· Pineapple – Enzymatic action helps clear away dead cell debris. Soak gauze pads in the juice and leave on the face for the usual 20 minutes.
· Apricot – Mash fresh ones to pulp – soak dried ones overnight - cook until soft, then mash. Add a binder if necessary.
· Grape – Use seedless green grapes, mashed to a pulp. For dry skin add honey or beaten egg yolk; for oily skin add a whisked egg white.
· Avocado – Mash, and mix with honey and lemon juice.
· Tomato – Mash and combine with oatmeal.
· Cucumber – Mash and add a binder if desired.
· Cabbage – Extract juice from very green leaves and heat slightly; soak gauze pads in the juice to apply.
· Egg White – Whisk until stiff and brush on; ¼ teaspoon of cider vinegar may be added to balance the acid mantle of the skin. Alternatively, whisk the egg white with a tablespoon of skimmed milk.
· Egg Yolk – Beat, and combine with a tablespoon of honey and a teaspoon of any vegetable oil.
· Honey – 2 tablespoons honey and 12 teaspoon of lemon juice or cider vinegar.
· Brewer’s Yeast – 1 teaspoon powdered yeast and about 2 teaspoons warm water; adjust the consistency so that it will spread like a paste.
Recipes
Apricot Facial
· 6 dried apricots
· 2 cups cold milk
· 1 teaspoon avocado or almond oil
· 1 teaspoon honey
· 3 drops apple cider vinegar
Soak the apricots in milk overnight, remove from the liquid and mash well. Add the oil, honey and cider vinegar; pat on the face.
Apple Facial
· 1 apple
· ½ teaspoon cream
· 1 tablespoon honey
· 1 tablespoon ground oatmeal
Mash the apple with the cream, add the honey and oatmeal.
Oatmeal Facial
· 2 tablespoons unprocessed oatmeal
· ½ cup milk
· 2 tablespoons elder flower water
Cook the oatmeal and the milk as though it were porridge until soft. Remove from the heat, add the elderflower and beat together. When it is just warm spread it over the face.
Mayonnaise Facial
· 1 cup olive oil
· 1 egg
· ½ teaspoon sea salt
· 2 tablespoons lemon juice
Blend half a cup of the oil with the remaining ingredients; whip until thick and pour in the rest of the oil very slowly. Keep refrigerated.
Honey Facial
· 1 egg yolk
· 1 teaspoon olive oil
· 1 tablespoon honey
Beat the egg yolk into the oil, the blend in the honey.
Honey and Oatmeal Facial
· 30g honey
· 1 teaspoon lemon juice
· 2 unbeaten egg whites
· ½ teaspoon almond oil
· 2 tablespoons powdered oatmeal
Mix everything together except the oatmeal. When smooth slowly add sufficient oatmeal to make a moist, but not sloppy, paste.
Wheatgerm Facial
· 1 egg yolk
· ½ teaspoon wheatgerm
· ¾ cup almond oil
· 1 teaspoon distilled water
Beat the first three ingredients together, add the water and beat again. Brush on the face.
Cucumber Facial
· 1 cucumber
· ¼ teaspoon lemon juice
· 1 teaspoon witch hazel
· 1 teaspoon alcohol
· 1 egg white, whipped
Peel the cucumber and extract the juice; add the lemon juice, witch hazel and alcohol. Stir well; then blend in the whipped egg.
Any vegetable oil will remove make-up, including the more obstinate eye colourings and mascara; simply put a little on a wad of cottonwool and gently clean. Almond oil and coconut oil are specially recommended. Other simple cleaners are fresh potato juice, strawberry juice, warm milk and natural Yogurt; although these clean the skin admirably, they are not always so successful at clearing away the heavier makeup.
Recipes
Oatmeal Cleanser Using unprocessed oatmeal (not instant) grind to a powder and add enough cream or milk to make a fairly stiff paste. Rub on and into any particularly dirty area; rinse away.
Basic Light Cleansing Cream
· 15g of white wax
· 6 tablespoons almond oil
· ¼ teaspoon boric acid powder
· 5 tablespoons distilled water
Melt the wax in a double boiler (or in a glass bowl inserted in simmering water) and slowly add the almond oil. In a separate dish dissolve the boric acid powder in the warmed distilled water; add this to the wax and oil; remove from the heat and whisk until it thickens and becomes a cream.
Almond Cleansing Cream
· 15g white wax
· 2 tablespoons hydrous lanolin
· 8 tablespoons almond oil
· 2 tablespoons rose water
Melt the wax and lanolin in a double boiler, beating slowly and adding the almond oil by degrees; blend with the rose water.
Avocado Cleansing Cream
· 15g white wax
· 2 tablespoons hydrous lanolin
· 6 tablespoons avocado oil
· 5 tablespoons distilled water
Melt the wax in a double boiler, stir in the lanolin and then add the oil. Remove from the heat and slowly stir in water; stir or whisk until cool and set.
Yogurt and Lemon Cleansing Milk
· 1 tablespoon natural yogurt
· 1 tablespoon lemon juice
Simply mix together, make fresh for each use.
Cucumber Cleansing Milk
· ¼ cucumber
· ¼ pint milk
Extract or squeeze the juice from the cucumber and add to the milk; it will keep in the refrigerator for a few days.
Apple Cleansing Milk
· 1 apple
· 1 tablespoon milk
· 1 tablespoon fuller’s earth
Put the apple through a juice extractor and combine with the milk and the fuller’s earth.
Herbal Cleansing Milk
· 2 tablespoons elderflowers
· ¼ pint buttermilk
Slowly boil the flowers in the milk for half an hour, cover and leave to steep for 2 hours; strain.
Fresheners
Fresheners rinse away traces of oils and fats (residue from soaps and creams); they help close the pores, restore the skin’s acid mantle (the PH factor), stimulate circulation and refine texture. Freshener, toner and astringent are basically the same product in graded strengths. Fresheners and toners are simple plant and herbal applications and are for balanced or dry skins. Astringents are stronger and are for oily and blemished skins. Apply by soaking cottonwool pads or gauze squares in the liquids, and wipe over face.
Simple Recipes
· Cider Vinegar – Add a teaspoon to 1 ½ cups of water.
· Potato – Aub the skin with a slice of raw potato.
· Lemon – Rub with a slice of lemon, or splash with a combination of lemon juice and water.
· Camphor – Put a few drops in the last rinsing water.
· Cucumber – Squeeze the juice of 2 cucumbers, heat to boiling point, skim away the froth, bottle and refrigerate.
· Marigold – Using 6 cups of flower heads, make an infusion, strain.
· Elder Flower – Using 2 cups of the flower, make an infusion, strain.
· White Wine – After cleansing, splash with a light white wine.
Recipes
Rose Water and Witch Hazel Tone
· 2 parts rose water
· 1 part witch hazel
Simply combine and bottle.
Orange and Lemon Toner
· 3 lemons
· 1 orange
· 1 cucumber
· 3 dessert spoons rose water
· 40g alcohol
Extract the juice from the lemons, orange and cucumber and add the rose water and alcohol; shake well.
Lavender Toner
· 2 cups lavender flowers
· 30g powdered orris-root
· 1 pint vinegar
Steep the dry ingredients in the vinegar for three to four weeks; strain; dilute with an equal amount of distilled water.
Astringents
Mild astringents are simple herbal infusions; simmer a handful of any of the following in a cup of water, allowing it to steep for a minimum of two hours: sage, bilberry leaves, parsley, fennel, camomile, yarrow. Witch hazel has strong astringent properties and can be used on it’s own or as a part of astringent formulas.
Simple Witch Hazel Astringent
· 2 parts witch hazel
· 3 parts rose water
Mix by shaking in a bottle.
Comfrey Astringent
· ½ teaspoon boric acid powder
· 1 tablespoon witch hazel
· 6 tablespoons comfrey infusion
Dissolve the boric acid powder in the witch hazel, slowly stir in the comfrey infusion. Put immediately in a bottle, but allow to age for a minimum of a week before use.
Marigold Astringent
· ½ teaspoon alum
· 1 tablespoon witch hazel
· 6 tablespoons marigold infusion
Dissolve the alum in the witch hazel and add the marigold infusion.
Camphor Astringent
· 1 teaspoon spirit of camphor
· 4 tablespoons witch hazel
· 4 tablespoons rose water
· 4 tablespoons distilled water
Pour all the ingredients into a bottle and shake well to combine.
Almond Astringent
· 1 teaspoon boric acid powder
· 1 ½ teaspoons benzoin (friar’s balsam)
· 1 cup rose water
· 2 teaspoons ground almonds
· 1 cup distilled water
Dissolve the boric acid powder in the benzoin, slowly add the rose water. Mix he almonds in the distilled water; combine the two liquids and shake well in a bottle.
Sage Astringent
· ½ cup dried sage
· ½ cup alcohol
· ¼ teaspoon boric acid powder
· 3 tablespoons witch hazel
· 1 teaspoon glycerine
· ¼ teaspoon benzoin (friar’s balsam)
Steep the sage in the alcohol for a week; strain. Dissolve boric acid powder in the witch hazel and add this and all the other ingredients to the sage infusion.
Moisturizers
Moisturizers are preparations that form a protective film holding in the skin’s moisture; they themselves do not feed moisture into the skin. Moisture is the most important aspect of skin care, as it keeps the skin supple and smooth. Dry and older skins are usually lacking in moisture. A moisturizer is applied after cleansing and the use of a freshener or astringent.
Simple Recipes
· Vegetable Oil – A thin coating of any oil. Smooth over the face with a veil of water and blot dry.
· Cucumber – Cover the face with the juice. Blot dry.
Recipes
Basic Moisturizers
· 1 dessertspoon white wax
· 1 teaspoon cocoa butter (or any vegetable margarine)
· 1 ½ dessertspoons coconut oil
· 1 teaspoon lanolin
· ½ teaspoons boric acid powder
· 4 tablespoons distilled water
Melt the wax, cocoa butter, oil and lanolin in a double boiler. Dissolve the boric acid powder in distilled water, previously warmed. Slowly beat the water into the oils until the mixture cools.
Almond Moisturizing Lotion
· 30g almonds
· ½ pint distilled water
Skin the almonds b alternately dipping in boiling and cold water and grind them to a powder. Add the distilled water drop by drop, continuing to blend until the liquid is milky; strain.
Rose Water Moisturizing Lotion
· 5 tablespoons glycerine
· 3 tablespoons rose water
Pour into a bottle and shake well before each using.
Herbal Moisturizing Lotion
· 1 teaspoon cocoa butter
· 1 teaspoon lanolin
· 5 teaspoon almond oil
· 2 teaspoon herbal infusion (marigold, elder flower, comfrey, nettle, etc.)
Melt the cocoa butter, lanolin and almond oil in a double boiler; slowly add the infusion, beating constantly until cool.
Cucumber Moisturizing Cream
· 1 dessertspoon white wax
· 1 teaspoon cocoa butter
· 1 ½ dessertspoons coconut oil
· 1 teaspoon lanolin oil
· ½ teaspoon boric acid powder
· 4 tablespoons cucumber juice
· Distilled water
Melt the wax, cocoa butter, oil and lanolin in a double boiler. Dissolve the boric acid powder in distilled water, previously warmed. Slowly beat in the cucumber juice.
Conditioners
It is necessary to lubricate and nourish the skin with special emollients each day. This is the outward feeling of the skin that retains its smoothness and helps to prevent lines and wrinkles. A thin film of conditioner is sufficient, but it should be gently massaged onto the skin, using the fingertips in upward strokes over the jaw and throat areas, semi-circular movements around the eyes (very gentle here) and upward arc strokes over the forehead. Leave conditioner on for a few hours or overnight. Thoroughly cleanse afterwards.
Simple Recipes
· Honey – Moisten face, massage in honey, keep on for 20 minutes, rinse away.
· Honey and Cream – Mix 1 teaspoon honey with 2 teaspoons of light cream, beat together. Apply, leave for 20 minutes, rinse away.
Recipes
The basic recipe for a conditioning cream is one that originated in Greece many centuries ago. It was formulated by the famous doctor Galen, and to this day remains the basis for all nourishing creams. The procedure is invariable the same: first the fats are melted and the oils blended in; then any water ingredients (including herbal infusions, juices, etc.) are stirred or beaten in drop by drop; this slow process is essential and works on the same principle as adding oil to egg yolks when making mayonnaise. If it is done too quickly, the cream will be ruined.
Basic Conditioning Cream (Cold Cream)
· 400g almond oil
· 150g white wax
· 1 cup distilled water
· few drops spirit vinegar
Melt the oil and wax in a double boiler; then, drop by drop, beat in the water and spirit mixture.
Simple Conditioning Cream
· 1 egg white
· 2 teaspoons homey
· 4 drops almond oil
Beat the egg white and add it to the honey, stir in the oil; refrigerate – it only lasts a few days.
Sesame Oil Cream
· 15g white wax
· 60g almond oil
· 15g spermaceti
· 30g orange blossom infusion
Melt oils and fats together in a double boiler and slowly add orange blossom infusion.
Lily and Marshmallow Cream
· 1 tablespoon marshmallow root infusion
· ½ pint distilled water
· 1 tablespoon lily bulb powder
· 1 tablespoon honey
· 1 teaspoon rose water
· 30g lanolin
The marshmallow infusion is made by steeping the finely chopped root in cold water for a few hours; the liquid becomes gelatinous – strain before use. Simmer together with the distilled water and lily bulb powder for half an hour. Strain. Add the honey and rose water and blend well. Melt the lanolin in a double boiler and slowly add to the mixture.
Comfrey Cream
· 2 tablespoons lanolin
· 3 tablespoons white wax
· 4 tablespoons almond oil
· ¼ teaspoon boric acid powder
· 1 tablespoon distilled water
· 1 tablespoon strong comfrey infusion
Melt the lanolin in a double boiler and add the oil; dissolve the boric acid powder in the distilled water and add slowly to the melted fats; finally slowly beat in the comfrey infusion.
Simple Marigold Cream
· 1 large jar Vaseline
· 6 marigold heads
Melt the Vaseline in a double boiler, break up the flower heads, drop into the liquid and simmer for two hours – very gently. Strain before pouring into jars.
Strawberry Conditioning Cream
· 1 dessertspoon lanolin
· 1 dessertspoon powdered oatmeal
· ½ cup fresh or frozen strawberry juice
Melt the lanolin in a double boiler, add the oatmeal and when the mixture is smoother stir in the strawberry juice, beating all the time as the drops are added.
Exfoliators
Otherwise known as thinners or peeler, exfoliators help remove the dead surface cells. If these are not taken away, the skin becomes flaky or rough., often mottled in appearance. In addition, the dead cells clog up pored and prevent normal skin activity. Exfoliators are abrasive; some astringents act as mild thinners and are fine for young skins. Older skins require something tougher. Exfoliate once a week, after cleansing; once the treatment is finished. Rinse the skin, then moisturize it.
Simple Recipes
· Vegetable Oil – Rub the face with any vegetable oil, then dab on a film of warm water and a layer of apple cider vinegar. Rub in the mixture with circular movements; it will flake and peel off, taking the dead cells with it.
· Salt – Sprinkle ordinary salt on a wet facecloth and rub onto face, bu not too hard; rinse away. Not for use on delicate skin.
· Papaya Mint Tea – Pour two cups of coiling water on 2 papaya mint tea bags and leave to steep for a few minutes; soak a facecloth in the tea; wring out; apply to the face holding cloth against skin. The tea must be hot to be effective; keep heating and renewing the cloth. Continue application for 15 minutes.
Facials
Facials cleanse, stimulate and nourish the skin; they also increase circulation, bringing nutrients and oxygen to the surface. They often contain ingredients that act as purifiers, drawing out dirt, toxins and grease. Facials are usually in mask form, though sometimes a steam procedure is used. The face has to be thoroughly cleansed with a final clear water rinse before commencing any facial treatment.
Steam Facials
Herbal steam facials encourage the pores to push out dirt and impurities, while at the same time they help to heal blemishes. Pour boiling water over the herbs in a bowl; make a towel into a head tent and steam the face over the bowl for 10 minutes. Blot dry, freshen and moisturize. Traditionally the following herbs have been used in steam facials, either singularly or combined. (An infusion of any of the following can also be added to the solid masks for the same effects.)
· For Cleansing – camomile, lady’s mantle, nettle, rosemary, thyme, marigold
· For Tightening – peppermint, elder flower, benzoin, gum Arabic
· For Drying – yarrow
· For Healing – leek, comfrey, fennel
Solid Facials
Fruits, vegetables and herbs can be used alone, mixed or combined with a thickener (a substance that binds the ingredients together giving the facial a firm professional quality). Basically, a fruit or vegetable is mashed, an infusion is made of a herb. If the mixture is too runny, it is given substance by adding one of the following: oatmeal, fuller’s earth, clay, kaolin, honey and mashed banana – all neutral binders; whipped egg white or yogurt – these help oily skin conditions; whipped egg yolk or honey – these help dry skin. To make a slightly acid mantle, add a few drops of apple cider vinegar or fresh lemon juice. If the facial skin is dry or rough, add a tablespoon of oil – almond, avocado olive, safflower or wheatgerm. To help retain moisture, use honey or glycerine, which attract water from the under layers of the skin; or add the contents of a vitamin E capsule (100 international units) to the facial. It is not difficult to gauge the right consistency. A mask needs to be just thick enough to smooth onto the face without running off; start by adding the binder slowly to avoid making the formula too stiff. A mask is applied to a clean, rinsed face and should be kept on for 20 minutes. Some harden and dry, tightening the skin at the same time – but this depends on the binding material. The eye area should be left free and covered with milk soaked pads. Lie down the entire time with the head a little lower than the body if possible. Masks rinse off easily with warm water.
Simple Recipes
· Strawberry – Freshly mashed and applies, this softens and lightens the skin and helps to balance the pH factor; mix with oatmeal if too sloppy.
· Pineapple – Enzymatic action helps clear away dead cell debris. Soak gauze pads in the juice and leave on the face for the usual 20 minutes.
· Apricot – Mash fresh ones to pulp – soak dried ones overnight - cook until soft, then mash. Add a binder if necessary.
· Grape – Use seedless green grapes, mashed to a pulp. For dry skin add honey or beaten egg yolk; for oily skin add a whisked egg white.
· Avocado – Mash, and mix with honey and lemon juice.
· Tomato – Mash and combine with oatmeal.
· Cucumber – Mash and add a binder if desired.
· Cabbage – Extract juice from very green leaves and heat slightly; soak gauze pads in the juice to apply.
· Egg White – Whisk until stiff and brush on; ¼ teaspoon of cider vinegar may be added to balance the acid mantle of the skin. Alternatively, whisk the egg white with a tablespoon of skimmed milk.
· Egg Yolk – Beat, and combine with a tablespoon of honey and a teaspoon of any vegetable oil.
· Honey – 2 tablespoons honey and 12 teaspoon of lemon juice or cider vinegar.
· Brewer’s Yeast – 1 teaspoon powdered yeast and about 2 teaspoons warm water; adjust the consistency so that it will spread like a paste.
Recipes
Apricot Facial
· 6 dried apricots
· 2 cups cold milk
· 1 teaspoon avocado or almond oil
· 1 teaspoon honey
· 3 drops apple cider vinegar
Soak the apricots in milk overnight, remove from the liquid and mash well. Add the oil, honey and cider vinegar; pat on the face.
Apple Facial
· 1 apple
· ½ teaspoon cream
· 1 tablespoon honey
· 1 tablespoon ground oatmeal
Mash the apple with the cream, add the honey and oatmeal.
Oatmeal Facial
· 2 tablespoons unprocessed oatmeal
· ½ cup milk
· 2 tablespoons elder flower water
Cook the oatmeal and the milk as though it were porridge until soft. Remove from the heat, add the elderflower and beat together. When it is just warm spread it over the face.
Mayonnaise Facial
· 1 cup olive oil
· 1 egg
· ½ teaspoon sea salt
· 2 tablespoons lemon juice
Blend half a cup of the oil with the remaining ingredients; whip until thick and pour in the rest of the oil very slowly. Keep refrigerated.
Honey Facial
· 1 egg yolk
· 1 teaspoon olive oil
· 1 tablespoon honey
Beat the egg yolk into the oil, the blend in the honey.
Honey and Oatmeal Facial
· 30g honey
· 1 teaspoon lemon juice
· 2 unbeaten egg whites
· ½ teaspoon almond oil
· 2 tablespoons powdered oatmeal
Mix everything together except the oatmeal. When smooth slowly add sufficient oatmeal to make a moist, but not sloppy, paste.
Wheatgerm Facial
· 1 egg yolk
· ½ teaspoon wheatgerm
· ¾ cup almond oil
· 1 teaspoon distilled water
Beat the first three ingredients together, add the water and beat again. Brush on the face.
Cucumber Facial
· 1 cucumber
· ¼ teaspoon lemon juice
· 1 teaspoon witch hazel
· 1 teaspoon alcohol
· 1 egg white, whipped
Peel the cucumber and extract the juice; add the lemon juice, witch hazel and alcohol. Stir well; then blend in the whipped egg.